You know that feeling when you expect a chaotic city and get a visual masterpiece instead? Surabaya hit me like a bolt of lightning—massive colonial facades, sleek modern towers, and cultural landmarks breathing history. I didn’t come for architecture, but I left obsessed. It’s not just about old buildings; it’s how the city stitches tradition, innovation, and identity into every skyline view. This is urban storytelling at its finest. What makes Surabaya truly remarkable is not merely its pace of development, but the deliberate way it honors the past while shaping a bold future. Every structure, from centuries-old administrative buildings to shimmering new malls, tells a chapter in the city’s evolving narrative. For travelers seeking depth beyond the surface, Surabaya’s architecture offers a rare clarity—a lens through which to understand resilience, diversity, and vision.

First Impressions: Surabaya’s Skyline Surprise

Arriving in Surabaya, many anticipate a bustling port city defined by traffic, commerce, and urban sprawl. And while it is Indonesia’s second-largest city and a key economic engine, what unfolds is far more layered than industrial grit. The skyline reveals an unexpected harmony of eras—ornate 19th-century buildings stand shoulder to shoulder with glass-clad towers that seem to pierce the sky. This contrast is not accidental; it reflects a city that has grown with intention, respecting its roots while embracing transformation. Unlike cities that erase their past for modernity, Surabaya curates its evolution, allowing different architectural epochs to coexist in dialogue.

The city’s dual identity is evident from the moment you enter. In the north, along the Brantas River estuary, industrial zones hum with activity, yet even here, old warehouses have been repurposed into creative hubs. Moving toward the city center, the atmosphere shifts. Wide avenues like Jalan Tunjungan and Jalan Pemuda are lined with buildings that speak of different times—Dutch colonial administrative offices with grand porticos, mid-century civic buildings with clean lines, and contemporary shopping complexes that redefine urban convenience. This architectural layering creates a dynamic visual rhythm, where every turn offers a new juxtaposition of old and new.

One of the most striking examples of this contrast is the Tunjungan Plaza complex. Rising over six connected towers, it is one of Southeast Asia’s largest integrated mall developments. Its reflective glass surfaces and illuminated façade at night create a futuristic silhouette. Yet, just a few hundred meters away, the 19th-century Bank Mandiri Museum—formerly De Javasche Bank—stands in dignified contrast with its neoclassical columns and symmetrical design. The proximity of these two landmarks symbolizes Surabaya’s unique balance: economic ambition grounded in historical awareness. It’s not just about growth—it’s about meaningful, visually rich growth.

Colonial Echoes: The Dutch Legacy in Brick and Stone

Surabaya’s architectural depth begins with its colonial past. As a major port under Dutch rule, the city became a showcase of colonial urban planning and architectural design from the 1800s through the early 20th century. Today, remnants of this era are not relics hidden in museums—they are active participants in daily city life. Buildings like the Grahadi Building, the official office of the East Java governor, exemplify the Dutch Indies style, characterized by wide verandas, high ceilings, and large windows designed to maximize airflow in the tropical climate. These features were not just aesthetic choices; they were practical responses to Surabaya’s heat and humidity, demonstrating early climate-responsive design.

The Jembatan Merah, or Red Bridge area, once the heart of the colonial commercial district, still carries the imprint of this era. Though the original bridge is gone, the surrounding buildings retain their historical character. Structures such as the former NHM (Nederlandsch-Indische Handelsmaatschappij) building feature ornate cornices, stucco detailing, and clock towers that once marked the rhythm of colonial commerce. Many of these buildings have been preserved or restored, not as static monuments, but as functional spaces—housing government offices, banks, and cultural centers. This adaptive reuse ensures that history remains accessible, not locked behind velvet ropes.

Preservation efforts in Surabaya reflect a growing awareness of architectural heritage as a civic asset. Organizations like the Surabaya Heritage Society work with city planners to identify and protect significant buildings, advocating for sensitive renovations that maintain original features. In some cases, modern interventions—such as new roofing or updated electrical systems—are carefully integrated to meet current needs without compromising historical integrity. The result is a cityscape where the past is not frozen, but allowed to breathe and adapt. This respect for legacy architecture also fosters civic pride, reminding residents and visitors alike of the city’s long-standing role as a center of trade, governance, and cultural exchange.

Religious Grandeur: Where Faith Meets Design

One of Surabaya’s most compelling architectural narratives unfolds in its places of worship. The city’s multicultural fabric is vividly expressed through the design of its temples, churches, and mosques—each a testament to coexistence and creative synthesis. Among the most celebrated is the Cheng Hoo Mosque, named after the Chinese Muslim admiral Zheng He, who visited Java in the 15th century. Unlike traditional mosque designs, this structure incorporates distinct Chinese architectural elements: sweeping pagoda-style roofs, vibrant red columns, and intricate dragon carvings along the eaves. The minaret resembles a traditional Chinese tower rather than a slender Islamic spire, creating a visual language that honors both Islamic faith and Chinese heritage.

The symbolism in the Cheng Hoo Mosque’s design is intentional and powerful. The upward-curving roof lines evoke a sense of aspiration and spiritual elevation, while the open courtyard encourages community gathering and interfaith dialogue. Inside, the prayer hall features wooden latticework and calligraphy that blends Arabic script with Chinese artistic motifs. This fusion is not merely decorative—it reflects the lived reality of Surabaya’s diverse population, where religious and ethnic communities have coexisted for generations. The mosque has become a symbol of inclusivity, regularly hosting open houses and cultural events that welcome visitors of all backgrounds.

Surabaya’s religious architecture extends beyond this landmark. The city is home to historic churches such as Gereja Katolik Santa Maria Tak Bercela, a neo-Gothic structure with pointed arches and stained glass windows that date back to the Dutch colonial period. Meanwhile, Hindu temples like Pura Agung Shri Bhrma Swabawa showcase Balinese-inspired craftsmanship with tiered meru towers and detailed stone carvings. These structures, though serving different faiths, share a commitment to beauty, craftsmanship, and spiritual atmosphere. Their presence in close proximity—sometimes just blocks apart—speaks to Surabaya’s quiet but enduring tradition of tolerance and mutual respect, made visible through architecture.

Modern Powerhouses: Surabaya’s Contemporary Urban Pulse

As a leading economic center in East Java, Surabaya has embraced modern architecture to meet the demands of a growing population and expanding business sector. The rise of skyscrapers and mixed-use developments has transformed the city’s silhouette, introducing a new era of vertical living and working. Ciputra World Surabaya stands as a prime example—a sprawling complex that combines luxury residences, a high-end mall, an international hotel, and office spaces. Its sleek glass façade and LED-lit exterior make it a landmark at night, while its interior design emphasizes openness, natural light, and seamless connectivity between spaces.

Similarly, Pakuwon Mall, part of the larger Pakuwon City development, is one of the largest shopping destinations in Indonesia. Its design goes beyond retail—it integrates entertainment, dining, and public plazas into a cohesive urban experience. Wide walkways, indoor gardens, and themed zones create an environment that feels more like a city within a city. These developments are not just about consumption; they are social hubs where families gather, professionals network, and tourists explore. Their architectural scale and ambition reflect Surabaya’s confidence as a modern metropolis, capable of hosting world-class infrastructure without losing its local character.

What sets Surabaya’s modern architecture apart is its responsiveness to context. Unlike cities where glass towers create wind tunnels and heat islands, new developments here increasingly incorporate climate-sensitive design. Shading systems, natural ventilation corridors, and reflective materials help mitigate the tropical sun. Some buildings integrate water features and green walls to cool the surrounding air. Moreover, urban density has led to innovative approaches in public space design—rooftop parks, sky bridges between buildings, and pedestrian-friendly ground levels ensure that vertical growth does not come at the expense of livability. These choices reveal a mature approach to urban development, where aesthetics and functionality serve both people and environment.

Hidden Gems: Offbeat Structures with Soul

Beyond the grand landmarks and shopping meccas, Surabaya’s architectural soul reveals itself in quieter, often overlooked places. The House of Sampoerna, housed in a restored 19th-century Dutch orphanage, is one such gem. Its colonial architecture—red brick walls, wooden louvred shutters, and high gabled roofs—is seamlessly blended with industrial elements from its later use as a cigarette factory. Today, it functions as a museum, cultural center, and craft hub, where visitors can watch traditional cigarette rolling and explore exhibits on local heritage. The building’s preservation is a model of adaptive reuse, proving that historical structures can thrive in the modern economy without becoming museum pieces.

Another hidden treasure is the old tram station at Jembatan Merah. Though the tram system ceased operations decades ago, the station’s arched brick façade and tiled roof remain, quietly testifying to Surabaya’s early public transportation ambitions. Nearby, repurposed warehouses in the Kota Keramat area have been transformed into art galleries, cafes, and co-working spaces. These projects breathe new life into neglected corners of the city, fostering creativity and community engagement. Unlike large-scale developments, these grassroots transformations often emerge from local initiatives, driven by artists, entrepreneurs, and heritage advocates who see potential where others see decay.

Exploring these lesser-known sites offers a more intimate understanding of Surabaya. They remind us that a city’s character is not defined solely by its tallest buildings or busiest malls, but by the layers of history embedded in its streets. These offbeat structures invite slower, more reflective travel—wandering through courtyards, noticing weathered brickwork, and imagining the lives that once filled these spaces. For visitors seeking authenticity, they provide a counterpoint to the polished surfaces of modernity, revealing resilience, memory, and the quiet beauty of reinvention.

Green & Smart: The Future of Surabaya’s Cityscape

Surabaya’s architectural journey is not just about preserving the past or building upward—it is also about building smarter and greener. Recognized nationally and internationally for its urban innovation, the city was awarded the prestigious Adipura Kencana award multiple times for environmental management and earned designation as a “smart city” under Indonesia’s national program. This vision is reflected in its architecture and urban planning, where sustainability is no longer an afterthought but a guiding principle. Parks, green corridors, and vertical gardens are now integral to new developments, improving air quality and offering residents respite from the urban pace.

One of the most visible examples is the Surabaya Zoo area and its surrounding green belt, which has been revitalized to include jogging tracks, shaded seating, and native plantings. Meanwhile, new government buildings incorporate solar panels, rainwater harvesting systems, and energy-efficient lighting. The city’s public transportation hubs, such as the modernized Joyoboyo Bus Terminal, combine sleek design with functionality, featuring real-time information screens, air-conditioned waiting areas, and accessible pathways. These improvements are not just cosmetic—they reflect a commitment to inclusive, efficient urban living.

Smart city technologies are also shaping architectural design. Integrated traffic management systems reduce congestion, allowing for better pedestrian flow and safer street environments. Digital platforms enable citizens to report infrastructure issues, track public services, and participate in urban planning discussions. Architects and planners now use data analytics to optimize building placement, sunlight exposure, and wind patterns, ensuring that new constructions enhance rather than disrupt the urban ecosystem. This data-driven approach ensures that Surabaya’s growth is not only visible but intelligent—responsive to the needs of its people and the planet.

Why Architecture Tells Surabaya’s True Story

To walk through Surabaya is to witness a city in thoughtful conversation with itself. Its architecture is not a random collection of styles, but a coherent narrative of resilience, adaptation, and aspiration. From the enduring Dutch colonial buildings to the soaring contemporary towers, from the inclusive design of the Cheng Hoo Mosque to the green innovations of its smart city initiatives, every structure contributes to a larger story. This is a city that has weathered change—economic shifts, political transitions, natural challenges—and responded not with erasure, but with reinvention.

What emerges is a portrait of multiculturalism not as an abstract ideal, but as a lived reality. The fusion of Chinese, Javanese, Arab, and European influences in Surabaya’s buildings reflects centuries of exchange and coexistence. Unlike cities that homogenize in the name of progress, Surabaya celebrates its complexity. Its architecture invites us to look deeper—to see beyond facades and recognize the values embedded in design: respect for history, commitment to community, and vision for the future.

For the thoughtful traveler, especially those who appreciate culture, history, and urban life, Surabaya offers a rare gift. It does not demand attention with flashy attractions or over-touristed landmarks. Instead, it reveals itself gradually, through quiet courtyards, unexpected details, and the harmony of its skyline. To visit Surabaya is not just to see a city—it is to understand it. And in an age where so many urban centers look increasingly alike, Surabaya stands out as a place with a distinct soul, written in brick, stone, glass, and greenery. Its architecture is not just impressive—it is meaningful. And that is what truly blows the mind.